Shiraz Viognier 2009

It’s a mistake to ask a winemaker what their best vintage is, (the answer is bound to be the one that is just about to come out!) but the 2009 vintage in Canberra is worthy of your attention. In terms of pure quality, I put it on par with the 2007, without the drawback of miniscule yields.

Coming off the plentiful 2008 vintage the vines set low to moderate crops. We had good rains in spring and early summer.

A blistering February produced impressive maximum temperatures in the high thirties. Murrumbateman’s continentality worked in our favour: 15-to-20-degree temperature drops at night enabled the vines to recoup, and importantly, hang on to precious natural acid. March settled down to warm but not extreme conditions.

For red grapes, it is hard to imagine better conditions.

The aromas really do leap out of the glass. Complex, ripe fruit characters woven through the classic Canberra spice. The tannin structure seems to take on an extra level of finesse in 2009. The natural intensity of these wines makes them excellent candidates for the cellar. I don’t doubt they will take some years to reveal their full glory.

A potent aroma of ripe fruit; dark, intense and very pure; violets and summer berries; roast meats and complex spice notes. In the mouth there is loads of extract, black fruit, classic savoury spice and persistent, mouth-coating tannins. A warm-hearted, black diamond of a wine. Cellar for twenty years if you so desire. – Tim Kirk

SV batches picked from March 22 to April 7. Moderate yields. 5% Viognier, 22% whole bunches.

Jermey Oliver's 2011 Wine of the Year